Motorcycle Riding | Exploring Southern France Recap 2024 / 2025

Table of Contents

10 rides2 seasons5,057 kmTotal distance3,143 milesGPS tracked1,912 mHighest point2 yearsSouthern France1 cèpeFound

When we moved to the South of France, we knew the riding would be good. We didn't know how good, or how varied, or how quickly 5,000 kilometres would accumulate without any of it feeling like enough. This is the full log of our 2024 and 2025 riding seasons — ten trips, two years, every department from the Ardèche to the Pyrénées-Orientales, from the Corsican interior to the summit of Mont Ventoux.

All distances are GPS-tracked from our KML data. Not estimated, not rounded up. What follows is an honest account of where we went, what we found, and links to the full posts for each trip.

5,057 kilometres in two years. Southern France on a Triumph Tiger 900. We are just getting started.

2024 — The First Full Season

Total distance2,208 km / 1,372 miles
Trips4
SeasonMay to September 2024

June — Aveyron & Tarn: The Villages Time Forgot

The first proper multi-day ride — four days in the Aveyron and Tarn gorges, 679 kilometres from the farmhouse base near family in the region. Belcastel, Ambialet, Sainte-Énimie, Point Sublime, the Gorges de la Dourbie and Roquefort-sur-Soulzon. Everything that made us want to keep riding the South of France was present on this trip.

GPS distance679 km / 422 miles — Jun 13–16, 2024
Key stopsBelcastel, Ambialet, Sainte-Énimie, Point Sublime, Roquefort
Full post4 Day Motorcycle Ride in the Aveyron and Tarn →

May · June · July — Summer Day Rides from Montpellier

Four day rides across May, June, and July 2024 — 444 kilometres total — covering the Pic Saint-Loup circuit, the Hérault gorges and Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, and two garrigue loops north of Montpellier. This is what a Tuesday morning looks like when you live in the Hérault.

GPS distance444 km / 276 miles — 4 day rides across May–Jul 2024
Key stopsSaint-Guilhem-le-Désert, Pic Saint-Loup, Lac du Salagou
Full postSummer Day Rides from Montpellier →

September 2 — Fontaine de Vaucluse, Gordes and the Alpilles

A single-day ride on September 2 that covered 303 kilometres — the longest single day in the 2024 log. Fontaine de Vaucluse, Gordes, the Camargue edge, the Bac Barain cable ferry across the Grand Rhône, and Maussane-les-Alpilles. This was nominally a scouting ride before Corsica. It became one of the best days of the year.

GPS distance303 km / 188 miles — Sep 2, 2024
Key stopsFontaine de Vaucluse, Gordes, Capelière, Maussane-les-Alpilles
Full postA Day in Provence: Fontaine de Vaucluse, Gordes & the Alpilles →

September — Corsica: Eight Days on the Island

The flagship ride of 2024. Eight days on Corsica, 781 kilometres of GPS-tracked riding — ferry from Marseille to Porto Vecchio in the south, departure from L'Île Rousse in the north. Bonifacio, Sartène, Porto Pollo, Cargèse, the Calanques de Piana, Porto, the Forêt d'Aïtone, Hôtel Aïtone in Évisa. Three nights with friends near Bastellicaccia for the World Freediving Championships. The D81 between Porto and Piana remains the single best road we have ridden in France.

🛏️Hôtel Aïtone, Évisa

Lovely owners, a garage for the Tiger, generous dinner. Corsican cooking at its best. We would return without hesitation.

GPS distance781 km / 486 miles — Sep 10–18, 2024
FerryMarseille → Porto Vecchio inbound / L'Île Rousse → Marseille outbound
Full postCorsica Motorcycle Ride — The Island That Earns Every Kilometre →

2025 — The Second Season

Total distance2,849 km / 1,771 miles
Trips6
SeasonMay to September 2025
Highest pointMont Ventoux, 1,912 m

May — Ardèche: Four Days Through the Gorges

The 2025 season opened in May with the Ardèche — 609 kilometres across four tracked segments, including a long approach day from Béziers (288 km) before two days of gorge riding. The D290 Corniche de l'Ardèche, the Pont d'Arc limestone arch, Les Vans for lunch in the arcaded square. La Myrtilleraie in Peyrarère for dinner and breakfast — home-cooked, generous, loaded with goat's cheese.

🏡La Myrtilleraie, Peyrarère

Maison d'hôte in the Ardèche — home-cooked dinner, generous breakfast with home-made goat's cheese. La Myrtilleraie →

GPS distance609 km / 378 miles — May 13–15, 2025
Full postArdèche: Four Days Through the Gorges de l'Ardèche →

August — Two Days with Luc: Gorges de la Vis and the Gorges du Tarn

456 kilometres over two days — the Cirque de Navacelle, the Gorges de la Vis, La Malène, Castelbouc. The most personal ride of either year: a father-and-son loop through roads that Luc knew and I didn't. The Gorges de la Vis is the best-unknown motorcycle road in the region.

🛏️Hôtel Les Bateliers, La Malène

The classic Gorges du Tarn village hotel. Dinner at Hôtel-Bar L'Embarcadère across the road.

GPS distance456 km / 283 miles — Aug 23–24, 2025
Full postTwo Days Riding with my Son Luc: Gorges de la Vis, Gorges du Tarn & the Cévennes →

September 18 — Mont Aigoual: The Roof of the Cévennes

172 kilometres in a single day to the summit of Mont Aigoual at 1,565 metres and back. The Alps visible to the east. The Pyrenees to the southwest. Two lammergeier vultures on the return descent over the Gorges de la Jonte.

GPS distance172 km / 107 miles — Sep 18, 2025
SummitMont Aigoual, 1,565 m
Full postMont Aigoual by Motorcycle — The Roof of the Cévennes →

September 12–14 — Mont Ventoux and the Luberon

389 kilometres over three days. The highest point of both seasons combined at 1,912 metres. La Pause in Villes-sur-Auzon was the best accommodation of either year — Hélène's breakfast, the packed sandwiches for the summit, the glass of wine on the terrace.

🏡La Pause, Villes-sur-Auzon

Chez Hélène et Gérard — the best breakfast of two years. La Pause →

GPS distance389 km / 242 miles — Sep 12–14, 2025
SummitMont Ventoux, 1,912 m — highest point of both seasons
Full postMont Ventoux & the Luberon Riding — Three Days in Provence →

September 19–23 — Carcassonne to the Pyrénées Orientales

The longest ride of either year: 859 kilometres over four days. Cassoulet in Carcassonne. The bastide town of Mirepoix. The Gorges de l'Aude south of Quillan. Oysters at Leucate. Coffee in Collioure on a September morning.

🏰Adonis Carcassonne Résidence la Barbacane

Secure parking for the bike, right next to the medieval city.

GPS distance859 km / 534 miles — Sep 19–23, 2025
Best roadD118 Gorges de l'Aude, Quillan to Axat
Full postCarcassonne to the Pyrénées Orientales with our Triumph Tiger →

September 27–28 — The Cévennes: One Cèpe and 366 Kilometres

366 kilometres over two days. We went with mushroom baskets. Bonnie found one cèpe. The Col du Minier at 1,264 metres. The Corniche des Cévennes ridge road. The Cascade du Ray-Pic — a waterfall through basalt that we had been told about and were not remotely prepared for.

🏡Mas de Ribard

Maison d'hôte in the proper Cévennes. Mas de Ribard →

GPS distance366 km / 227 miles — Sep 27–28, 2025
Full postThe Cévennes in Two Days — Mushroom Picking, Mountains & Perfect Roads →

Two Seasons — The Numbers

Total distance5,057 km / 3,143 miles (GPS-tracked)
2024 distance2,208 km / 1,372 miles
2025 distance2,849 km / 1,771 miles
Total trips10 (4 in 2024, 6 in 2025)
Highest pointMont Ventoux, 1,912 m — Sep 14, 2025
Longest single daySep 2, 2024 — 303 km / 188 miles (Provence day ride)
Longest multi-dayCarcassonne loop — 859 km over 4 days (Sep 2025)
Furthest from baseCorsica — 8 days, ferry from Marseille (Sep 2024)
Departments riddenAveyron, Tarn, Lozère, Gard, Hérault, Ardèche, Vaucluse, Bouches-du-Rhône, Aude, Ariège, Pyrénées-Orientales, Corse-du-Sud, Haute-Corse
Best accommodationLa Pause, Villes-sur-Auzon — Hélène & Gérard (unanimous)
Best single roadD81 Porto–Piana, Corsica (2024) / D118 Gorges de l'Aude (2025)
Best discoveryGorges de la Vis — Luc's local knowledge, August 2025
Mushrooms found1 cèpe — Bonnie, Sep 27, 2025, Cévennes

Villages Worth Visiting — A Two-Year Collection

Across ten rides and two seasons we passed through, stopped in, ate lunch in, and occasionally got thoroughly lost in a considerable number of villages. These are the ones worth going out of your way for — organised by department, with enough detail to be useful whether you're on a motorcycle, in a car, or simply planning a day out from a base in the South of France.

Aveyron (12)

BelcastelAveyron (12) · Les Plus Beaux Villages

A 15th-century stone bridge and a perfectly restored château above the Aveyron river. One of the most beautiful villages in France. The reflection in still water is the photograph. Arrive before 10am or after 4pm.

Sainte-ÉnimieLozère (48) · Les Plus Beaux Villages

The jewel of the Gorges du Tarn — a medieval village carved into the limestone cliff above the green river. The gorge road to reach it is itself worth the ride. Allow at least an hour.

NantAveyron (12)

A medieval bastide at the junction of the Dourbie and Cantobre rivers. Covered market hall, good lunch options, completely unhurried pace. A natural base for the Gorges de la Dourbie.

Roquefort-sur-SoulzonAveyron (12)

Home of the famous blue cheese — aged in natural limestone caves since the Middle Ages. The caves are open to visitors; the approach road through the Combalou cliffs is unexpectedly dramatic.

MillauAveyron (12)

Best base for the region. The Millau Viaduct — the world's tallest bridge structure — is visible in its full 2.5km span from the valley floor. Genuinely astonishing at close range.

AmbialetTarn (81)

A village wrapped in an almost impossible meander of the Tarn river, the peninsula so narrow it looks like the village is floating. The 11th-century priory above offers sweeping views. Calm and uncommercialised.

Hérault (34) & Gard (30)

Saint-Guilhem-le-DésertHérault (34) · Les Plus Beaux Villages

A Carolingian abbey (founded 804 AD) in a limestone gorge — one of the great medieval villages of the Languedoc and only an hour from Montpellier. The Pont du Diable on the approach is 11th century and still in daily use.

Cirque de NavacelleHérault/Gard · Grand Site de France

One of the most extraordinary natural formations in Southern France — a near-perfect circular canyon with the village sitting at the bottom. The descent road is itself a destination. Do not miss this.

Saint-Martin-de-LondresHérault (34)

A beautifully preserved medieval village with a 12th-century church in the Pre-Alps of Hérault. Tuesday market. Natural stop on the Pic Saint-Loup circuit from Montpellier.

LaroqueHérault (34)

A small, authentic village at the entrance to the Gorges de la Vis — uncommercialised, genuinely local, and the best starting point for the gorge road that barely appears on any map.

Lac du SalagouHérault (34)

An artificial reservoir with extraordinary red volcanic shores — unlike anywhere else in the region. The circuit road around the lake is a beautiful half-day loop from Montpellier.

UzèsGard (30)

A beautifully preserved medieval town with a ducal castle and one of the finest Saturday markets in the South of France. An easy day trip from Montpellier or Nîmes.

Lozère (48) & Ardèche (07)

La MalèneLozère (48)

The classic Gorges du Tarn village — stone buildings at the water's edge, the canyon walls rising vertically on both sides. Boat trips into the gorge from the quay. Book ahead for high season.

CastelboucLozère (48)

A hamlet in the Gorges du Tarn with a ruined château balanced on a natural limestone column above the river. Barely signposted, entirely worth stopping for. One of our best discoveries.

FloracLozère (48)

Capital of the Cévennes National Park and the natural base for multi-day exploration. Tuesday market, park visitor centre, the confluence of five valleys. Genuine Cévennes atmosphere.

Pont-de-MontvertLozère (48)

A small village on the upper Tarn where Stevenson crossed the river on his 1878 walk through the Cévennes. Austere Huguenot character. Worth a stop if you're on the high route.

Vallon-Pont-d'ArcArdèche (07)

Gateway to the Ardèche gorge and home of the Pont d'Arc — the natural limestone arch that frames the river. Kayak trips depart from here. Tourist-oriented but the arch itself is unmissable.

Les VansArdèche (07)

A market town in the southern Ardèche with a beautiful arcaded square. Wednesday and Saturday market. The kind of lunch stop where two hours pass without anyone suggesting it should be shorter.

Vaucluse (84) & Bouches-du-Rhône (13)

GordesVaucluse (84) · Les Plus Beaux Villages

One of France's most photographed villages — stone houses climbing a limestone escarpment above the Luberon valley. Take the D15 from below for the classic view. The abbey of Sénanque nearby is worth the detour.

RoussillonVaucluse (84) · Les Plus Beaux Villages

The ochre village — walls, streets and cliffs in seventeen shades of red, yellow and orange. Extraordinary in late afternoon light when the colour intensifies. Short walk to the ochre sentier.

Isle-sur-la-SorgueVaucluse (84)

'The Venice of Provence' — a town built on islands in the Sorgue river with antique water wheels still turning. Sunday antiques market is one of the largest in France. Give it more time than you plan to.

Fontaine de VaucluseVaucluse (84)

Where the Sorgue river emerges fully-formed from a cliff face — one of the world's great natural springs. Visit in September for manageable crowds. Short walk from parking to the source.

Vaison-la-RomaineVaucluse (84)

A town in two parts — Roman ruins and a medieval haute-ville separated by an ancient bridge. The Roman theatre and colonnaded streets are among the most impressive in Provence.

Maussane-les-AlpillesBouches-du-Rhône (13)

A quiet village in prime olive oil country — AOP Les Baux. Wednesday market. The D5 circuit toward Les Baux de Provence is a beautiful short loop through the Alpilles limestone.

Aude (11), Ariège (09) & Pyrénées-Orientales (66)

Carcassonne (La Cité)Aude (11)

The double-walled medieval fortress city — one of the most remarkable medieval monuments in Europe. Walk the ramparts at dusk when the day-trippers have gone. Eat cassoulet. Stay the night if you can.

MirepoixAriège (09)

One of the finest medieval bastide towns in France — the arcaded Place des Couverts has stood since the 13th century. Monday market. Dinner under the arcades is a genuinely good evening.

QuillanAude (11)

A modest town that earns its place as the gateway to the Gorges de l'Aude. The D118 south toward Axat is one of the best unknown motorcycle roads in the South of France.

ColliourePyrénées-Orientales (66)

The jewel of the Catalan coast — a bay, a Château Royal on the waterfront, a church bell tower that Matisse painted, and a quality of light that explains Fauvism. A coffee stop that becomes a morning.

LeucatePyrénées-Orientales (66)

A village on a coastal spit between the lagoon and the Mediterranean — the sea visible in two directions simultaneously. Roadside oyster and mussel stalls from the étang. A natural stop on the coastal return.

PézenasHérault (34)

A Renaissance town of rare quality in the heart of the Languedoc wine country — Molière performed here. One of the best antiques quarters in the South of France. Saturday market. Give it more time than you think you need.

Corsica (2A · 2B)

BonifacioCorse-du-Sud (2A)

Clifftop citadel above white limestone cliffs — one of the most dramatic situations of any town in France. Walk the ramparts at sunset. The view to Sardinia on a clear day is 12 kilometres across open water.

SartèneCorse-du-Sud (2A)

The most authentically Corsican of the inland towns — Prosper Mérimée called it 'the most Corsican of all Corsican towns.' Dark granite, old money, a Saturday market that is entirely local.

Piana / CalanquesHaute-Corse (2B)

The Calanques de Piana on the road to Porto — pink granite formations the size of apartment buildings above a turquoise sea. One of the great drives of France. Ride it in both directions.

ÉvisaHaute-Corse (2B)

The gateway to the Forêt d'Aïtone — 500-year-old Laricio pines, mountain waterfalls, the Cascade d'Aïtone a short walk from the road. Hôtel Aïtone is the place to stay.

PortoHaute-Corse (2B)

A Genoese watchtower, extraordinary evening light on the cliffs, good restaurants at the water's edge. The natural base for riding the western coast.

CargèseHaute-Corse (2B)

A village with a unique history — founded by Greek refugees in the 18th century, with two churches (Greek Orthodox and Roman Catholic) still facing each other across the main street three centuries later.

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What Two Years Has Taught Us

The South of France is not one riding destination. It is a network of regions — the volcanic Ardèche, the limestone Cévennes, the lavender plateaux of the Vaucluse, the Cathar shadow of the Aude, the compressed drama of Corsica — connected by D-roads that reward the motorcycle rider specifically. Not the car driver. The motorcycle, which can stop exactly where the view is best, take the road that looks good on the map, and cover 300 kilometres in a day without any of it feeling rushed.

The practical lesson of two seasons: May and September are the months. May for the spring — snowmelt rivers, flowering garrigue, the roads almost empty. September for the autumn — lower light, turning chestnuts, the crowds gone, the roads yours again.

The personal lesson: ask someone who lives here where they actually go. Luc's Gorges de la Vis didn't appear in any list we had read. The café owner in Murs was right about the Ventoux approach. The barman in Laroque was right about the gorge road. Local knowledge is not supplementary — it is the point.

Ask someone who lives here where they actually go. The answer is almost never what appears in the guidebook. And the roads they take are invariably the best ones.

🏍️

September is the month for almost all of these rides. The summer heat is gone, the chestnut forests begin to turn, the roads have shed their traffic, and the light drops lower and more golden on the rock. May is a close second for spring flowers and snowmelt rivers. Plan around those two windows and the South of France will not disappoint.

MotorcycleTriumph Tiger 900Southern France20242025Year in ReviewAveyronCorsicaArdècheCévennesMont VentouxCarcassonneGorges de la VisVillagesExpat Life